Monday, July 16, 2018

ProClip phone Mount 2017 Raptor...

One of my biggest pet-peeves is when people hold their phone while they're driving - especially when it's a big-ass truck - like a Raptor... HELOOOOO it's almost 3 tons - you're gonna kill someone...

There are tons of mounts out there - just get one, I ended up choosing the ProClip model and have had them in 4 of my vehicles over the years...  they are very well engineered, and haven't had any issues with any phone (or GPS) drops over the years...


quick assembly with a few screws - you buy the right holder for your phone, the long mounting bar has 2 tape strips and it hooks into the dash where the defroster vents are located

simply peel the tape, and hook the back of the mount in the slot

now you mount the front with the tape to the driver side vent

now you see it mounted - almost looks stock!

and here's the final result - perfect placement to see and not TOUCH the phone :)

Monday, April 30, 2018

Gen 2 Upfitter Switch Tailgate Release Kit - just do it!

Ever sit in your F-150 and wish you could 'pop' the tailgate, much like if you're in a car and you want to 'pop' the trunk?  Well, now you can! 

Long story short, you can order this kit here for $25

note: This mod only works on the 2017 Raptor with 802A package.

This modification behaves exactly as a trunk release button in a Ford sedan would. Meaning, it will not function while the Truck is moving. It will not function if the truck is not in accessory mode or turned on. The system cannot be damaged by leaving the upfitter in the on position either. Leaving the upfitter switch toggled on is the same as pressing and holding the trunk release button in a Ford sedan. Once the signal to open the trunk is sent no more power is sent to the actuator, all signals are ran through the BCM processors. This is a modification that operates as an OEM system would.

Q:Does this modification require permanent modification to my vehicle?
A: No. Zero factory wiring will need to be cut or spliced (aside from the upfitter switch wires)

Q: How long will this take to install?
A: Approx 30min. Less time for some who is experienced with following simple instructions and the use of a wrench (haha).

Q: Will leaving the upfitterswiatch on cause damage? or overload the tailgate actuator?
A: No. Absolutely not. By flipping the up fitter ONE single signal is sent to "pop" the tailgate, after this signal is sent no more power will be sent to the tailgate.

Q: Will this modification work while the vehicle is in motion? While the vehicle is powered off?
A: No. This modification will only work when the ignition is in the ACC/ON/RUN position and the vehicle is not moving faster than 1MPH, regardless of gear selected.

$25 Shipped via PayPal Goods and services
(Please add $6 for international shipping if outside USA).

Each kit Includes:

-All required wiring and relay. Everything is prewired and labeled for ease of installation.
-Wire ties and heat shrink tubing to insulate and secure splices.
-This kit requires ZERO cuts or splicing into factory wire harnesses and takes less than 30 minutes with basic tools to install. (splicing of up fitter switch wires required)

Please ensure to leave shipping address!

Took me about 30 minutes to install (very complete kit!)  Just do it!  Support a Veteran!

Friday, April 20, 2018

2017 Ford Raptor rear door 6.5" and Dynamat

Recently I replaced the front door speakers and applied dynamat to the doors - HUGE difference!  I got some time to do the rear doors - just as amazing difference.  Now that all the doors are timbre matched the truck sounds EVEN better!  The Dynamat Sound Dampening really reduces extra noises as well...

Here are some quick tips in case you haven't done this before!
Here are the tools I used: (turn off your ad blocker to see!)


Welcome to the rear doors - very much like the front but only 6 x 7mm screws

he tools that were used...

flat screwdriver slot at the bottom front to help you pry off the handle...

simply pull outward, keeping in mind the tab at the rear of the handle

use your tool to pop open the panel under the handle...

now you can remove the 4 7mm screws in the handle area

 and 2 7mm underneath the door

I didnt do this on the fronts, but removing the door handle clip is really easy - just pry down on the tab at the bottom of the clip, it pops right out!

remember to unplug the connectors - I had 2 behind the handle and of course, the wire clip going to the speaker itself...  naked door!!!

You will still use your 7mm socket, remove the 3 screws from the speaker - there are 2 pegs in the speaker mount - don't worry the speaker won't fall out :)

ok - NOW the door is really naked :)

look at the stock unit... yikes!  makes you think WHAT ARE THOSE!!!?!?!?

Slowly peel back the sealant on the vapor barrier, use a utility knife carefully - you'll re-use the stuff.

Oops - forgot this tool!  

Also - this is the Dynamat Extreme pack I used, 9 sheets - and I've used 2 sheets per door!
try to get as much inside the door panel as you can...

Here's how I do the speaker holes - start at the center and cut radially to the edges, I usually do 8 slices (like cutting a pizza)

another pic slicing...

next - put each slice behind the door and tuck it in tightly against the back of the panel - this acts as a good seal for the speaker mount and also adds sound deadening right at the speaker

now you can see the finished speaker opening - be sure you use a utility knife to poke the Dynamat where the speaker mount screws are...

keep working on the door panel with dynamat and rolling it out

here you can see the new speaker next to the OEM one...

note that there is no 'hole' in the mouting bracket for the wiring harness so I chose to pinch the wires in between the dynamat and bracket

The dynamat is soft enough to allow some play in the wiring so I'm not worried they'll wear much...

Put it all back together again, and you're done!

The sound of these Pioneer speakers is lightyears better than the stock speakers!
Hope you enjoy!

Sunday, April 15, 2018

Dynamat and Pioneer 6x9 upgrades in the doors - finally!

Yes, a year ago I posted a blog about installing an audio upgrade in the Raptor for < $600.   I finally got around to doing the front doors today!

Here are some quick tips in case you haven't done this before!
Here are the tools I used: (turn off your ad blocker to see!)


I used the bike tire levers because the softer plastic edges won't mar the paint...

Under the door handle is a little slot just for a flat screwdriver to help pry it out!

Then you can use the clip remover for more leverage - pry the front first, the back will just pull forward and come off...

see how it separates?  easy!

just a gentle pull and it comes right off...

notice the two screws - you'll use the 7mm socket on these soon...

Now use the same technique to pry DOWN the tab under the handle... there are 2 more 7mm screws

I used my power drill with a socket extension to make quick work of the 4 screws...

2 more 8mm screws on the bottom of the door

and finally - one 7mm screw behind the pillar you first removed... that's all the screws!

I laid out all the screws in the order they came out for easy re-install later...
7 x 7mm screws altogether!

use the pry tool to start popping the door skin away from the metal door...

there are 3 electrical connectors on my door, unclip each one - you can also unclip the door handle but I chose to let it hang...

you can see there is some noise abatement already in the lower door...

here you can see the whole door skin suspended by the handle cable and the OEM speaker (blech!)

You just unclip the speaker and undo all 4 8mm bolts - it's a measly speaker eh?

the front of the speaker... ugh.

here's the new Pioneer Speaker TS-A6986R wired with the Metra 825606 Front 6"x9" Speaker Plate

You'll also use  2 of Metra 72-5602 4-Way Speaker Harness Connector for Ford & Mazda Vehicles 
Next, you'll want to use the dynamat - put it inside the doors as much as you can and cover the door

if you look closely, I cover the speaker hole then spider cut the hole into about 8 slices, then push the dynamat into the door behind the speaker hole which dampens the whole speaker surround area :)

Now you can see pretty much the finished door with dynamat!

mount the speaker bracket - don't forget to put the wiring harness through the hole at the bottom

a little closer look at the wiring and the bracket

now the speaker is fully mounted!

don't forget to plug in all the wires and redo the door just the opposite that you took it apart, the passenger door went 2x as fast - once you figure it out - you'll be able to pop your door panel off in < 5 minutes :)

The sound of these 4-way speakers is lightyears better than the stock speakers!
Hope you enjoy!